Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
